User:Avanya/Glassblowing guide - Revision history

Avanya at 21:52, 6 February 2013

2013-02-06T21:52:58Z

Avanya: /* Distillation Coils */

2013-02-06T20:20:04Z

Distillation Coils

Avanya: /* Distillation Coils */

2013-02-06T18:46:52Z

Distillation Coils

Avanya: /* Distillation Coils */

2013-02-06T18:26:11Z

Distillation Coils

Avanya: /* Distillation Coils */

2013-02-03T16:30:39Z

Distillation Coils

Avanya: /* Heating Settings */

2013-02-01T22:22:27Z

Heating Settings

Avanya: /* Heating Settings */

2013-02-01T22:05:26Z

Heating Settings

Avanya: /* Distillation Coils */

2013-02-01T21:58:06Z

Distillation Coils

Avanya: /* Distillation Coils */

2013-02-01T21:56:05Z

Distillation Coils

Avanya: /* Distillation Coils */

2013-02-01T21:55:24Z

Distillation Coils

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:52, 6 February 2013
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	3) Finally, once the timer on the glory hole has expired, you can take your time to find the peak of the quality of the piece you made. Rotate it around and hit Q for each position, until you find the peak. The big thing here is that you will want to rotate the piece fully many times, because the rotation motion doesn't sum up to 360 degrees evenly. So while you may find the peak quality at, say 7400 quality, if you rotate it all the way around again, you might find the quality has gone up to 7600! (Generally, the higher quality you have gotten, the bigger steps in these peak qualities as you rotation from peak to peak...I get excited when I see a difference of more than a few hundred, it usually cues me in that I have a great successful piece in the 8k's range). So it can take a little while rotating it around and around, but honing in on the best quality is worth it. After you're found the peak, unload it.		3) Finally, once the timer on the glory hole has expired, you can take your time to find the peak of the quality of the piece you made. Rotate it around and hit Q for each position, until you find the peak. The big thing here is that you will want to rotate the piece fully many times, because the rotation motion doesn't sum up to 360 degrees evenly. So while you may find the peak quality at, say 7400 quality, if you rotate it all the way around again, you might find the quality has gone up to 7600! (Generally, the higher quality you have gotten, the bigger steps in these peak qualities as you rotation from peak to peak...I get excited when I see a difference of more than a few hundred, it usually cues me in that I have a great successful piece in the 8k's range). So it can take a little while rotating it around and around, but honing in on the best quality is worth it. After you're found the peak, unload it.
		+
		+
		+	<br>
		+	Watch me make a [http://youtu.be/FjWVmaTttek distillation coil] in a video here!

	==Hookah Bowls==		==Hookah Bowls==

@@ Line 299: / Line 299: @@
 *ANNN.
 :(forming the coil)
-*A, sag, sag, A, sag, sag, ANNN   (this is the main sequence for making the coil)
+*Sag, sag, A, sag, sag, ANNN   (this is the main sequence for making the coil)
-:Do this sequence a total of 9 times to make the coil. However, on the 4th or 5th repeat, leave out the middle A, so that you do this:  A, sag x 4, ANNN.
+:Do this sequence a total of 9 times to make the coil. However, on the 4th or 5th repeat, leave out the middle A, so that you do this:  Sag x 4, ANNN.
 :(leaving the bulb unblown but straight)
-*A, sag, sag. While the last 2 sags are occuring, spam A the piece all the way into the Glory hole.
+*sag, sag. While the last 2 sags are occuring, spam A the piece all the way into the Glory hole.
 *Balance the coil.

@@ Line 276: / Line 276: @@
 This was one of the toughest challenges for me to figure out. I made many hundreds of attempts to work out the sequence below, so I hope it saves other people time as they try to master this piece. (Many thanks Zaarain, his comments on the T4 wiki guide helped me get started). There are probably a few different key stroke sequences that work, but I will share the one I use.
 There are a few steps to making a successful distillation coil. There is the key-stroke sequence to make the coil, the balancing of the coil while it cools, and finally finding your maximum quality spot after the timer expires.
@@ Line 286: / Line 296: @@
 :(leaving the front of the coil straight):
 *AAAA (fast)
-*Sag three times
+*Sag four times
 *ANNN.
 :(forming the coil)

@@ Line 299: / Line 299: @@
 One trick that I use to do this that I use a line on the back of the glory hole to help me align the tops and bottoms of the coil peaks. After I make my first coil, I don't remove it right away. I spam the G button to highlight the goal animation for a while, and then align my camera so that the peaks of the coil line up w/ the lines drawn on the back of the glory hole:
-<<insert photo>>
+[[image:Distcoillineup_marked.png]]
 I lock my camera with alt-L once I have it angled just right. Then, for each coil I make, as I rotate and balance the coil, I have that line to visually help me figure out if the piece is too high or too low.

@@ Line 301: / Line 301: @@
 <<insert photo>>
-I lock my camera with control-L once I have it angled just right. Then, for each coil I make, as I rotate and balance the coil, I have that line to visually help me figure out if the piece is too high or too low.
+I lock my camera with alt-L once I have it angled just right. Then, for each coil I make, as I rotate and balance the coil, I have that line to visually help me figure out if the piece is too high or too low.
 ) Finally, once the timer on the glory hole has expired, you can take your time to find the peak of the quality of the piece you made. Rotate it around and hit Q for each position, until you find the peak. The big thing here is that you will want to rotate the piece fully many times, because the rotation motion doesn't sum up to 360 degrees evenly. So while you may find the peak quality at, say 7400 quality, if you rotate it all the way around again, you might find the quality has gone up to 7600! (Generally, the higher quality you have gotten, the bigger steps in these peak qualities as you rotation from peak to peak...I get excited when I see a difference of more than a few hundred, it usually cues me in that I have a great successful piece in the 8k's range).  So it can take a little while rotating it around and around, but honing in on the best quality is worth it. After you're found the peak, unload it.

@@ Line 32: / Line 32: @@
 *(image from tale 2 wiki, courtesy of FaceAnkh)
-<br>One thing to remember is that every tick of time that a section of glass is in the heating plane, it is accumulating heat. At the same time, the entire piece looses a little heat. As you move the piece around, keep in mind you are "summing up" heat from all those ticks, but also losing heat the longer its out of the heating plane. Short of going all geeky here and talking about calculus, I like to use the analogy that its like painting with heating. As you move the piece around you add more paint to it, but as it dries, the color fades.  I especially think of this analogy when I use pinpoint heat, since the "brush" of heat is so exact. Developing a method of making a piece is balancing these two actions...you want to end up with a certain profile of summed up heat across the piece before you blow, since hotter pieces blow larger than cooler ones. WHen you think about it that way, its easy to see how there are many possible ways of attaining the same piece, by using different heating settings and keystroke combinations.
+<br>One thing to remember is that every tick of time that a section of glass is in the heating plane, it is accumulating heat. At the same time, the entire piece looses a little heat. As you move the piece around, keep in mind you are "summing up" heat from all those ticks, but also losing heat the longer it's out of the heating plane. Short of going all geeky here and talking about calculus, I like to use the analogy that its like painting with heating. As you move the piece around you add more paint to it, but as it dries, the color fades.  I especially think of this analogy when I use pinpoint heat, since the "brush" of heat is so exact. Developing a method of making a piece is balancing these two actions...you want to end up with a certain profile of summed up heat across the piece before you blow, since hotter pieces blow larger than cooler ones. When you think about it that way, it's easy to see how there are many possible ways of attaining the same end result, but by using different heating settings and keystroke combinations.
 ===Glass Controls===

@@ Line 293: / Line 293: @@
 *Balance the coil.
-) Balancing is crucial to the quality. I find it hard to check the quality while I balance, because the quality is relative to the rotational orientation.  (this is the only non-symmetrical piece, so this is the only case where we see quality change due to rotation).  When I do watch quality as I balance, I have seen quality change as much as 500 or more from one sag of the piece, so balancing really makes a HUGE difference! I usually spend all the remaining "active" time (where the piece will still sag) trying to get it perfectly balanced on the central axis.
+) Balancing is crucial to the quality. I find it hard to check the quality while I balance, because the quality is relative to the rotational orientation.  (this is the only non-symmetrical piece, so this is the only case where we see quality change due to rotation).  When I do watch quality as I balance, I have seen quality change as much as 500 or more from one sag of the piece, so balancing really makes a HUGE difference! I usually spend all the remaining "active" time (where the piece will still sag) trying to get it perfectly balanced on the central axis. Worry about the quality when its done. Also, if you try to unload the piece while you are balancing it (if you do watch quality as you work), be warned... you have to be very fast! I have often seen a sag happen just as I pull out the piece, and I end up with a much lower quality coil.  It's much safer to just concentrate on balancing, and then when its cooled off, check for your quality peak.
 One trick that I use to do this that I use a line on the back of the glory hole to help me align the tops and bottoms of the coil peaks. After I make my first coil, I don't remove it right away. I spam the G button to highlight the goal animation for a while, and then align my camera so that the peaks of the coil line up w/ the lines drawn on the back of the glory hole: