The Wiki for Tale 6 is in read-only mode and is available for archival and reference purposes only. Please visit the current Tale 11 Wiki in the meantime.

If you have any issues with this Wiki, please post in #wiki-editing on Discord or contact Brad in-game.

Difference between revisions of "Test of Dancing Waters"

From ATITD6
Jump to navigationJump to search
m
Line 146: Line 146:
 
|-
 
|-
 
| RP  || 1574, 2644        || Akana        || No as of 9/10/13
 
| RP  || 1574, 2644        || Akana        || No as of 9/10/13
|-}
+
|-
 +
| RP  || 1569, 3166        || Aveege      || Yes-passed 9/8/14
 +
|-
 +
}
  
  
 
{{TestsNav|Art and Music}}
 
{{TestsNav|Art and Music}}

Revision as of 05:43, 9 September 2014

English Deutsch français magyar Türkçe



English Deutsch français magyar Türkçe
  Test of (the)  
Test of Dancing Waters
Discipline
Requirements
Principles
  • Build a Dancing Waters Mechanism
  • Start the Mechanism, achieving at least 20% Mechanical Stress
  • Tear down your Fountain, OR do the following:
    • Have Seven Judges rate your Fountain
    • Design rated Good by most judges
Demonstration


Overview

Design an elegant water fountain using a variety of basins, nozzles and creative timing of effects.

First, build a Dancing Waters Mechanism, using a Small Construction Site. Then you can build basins nearby the Mechanism and install nozzles (which can be forged out of different metals) in the basins. Then the fun begins...

example: m9p1li.png

Dancing Waters Mechanism

Built in a Small Construction Site.

Note: The Mechanism can not be too close to another one (40 coords away has been confirmed to be a safe distance), as it will not let you access it. Make sure that you scout the entire area before building as ground clutter will prevent other fountains showing on your screen.

Installation Notes

There are a number of guides on the wiki (T6 and older) that explain the basics of how to make and work a fountain.

One item missing in these discriptions is "How to solve leaks". Leaks are marked by large bright blue circles on the interface.

Leaks come in several forms.

  • Hosepipe Leak:

The most common is from a nozzle that points out of it's basin to another location but doesnt truely hit the other basin. The dots marking your location (yellow) and a tiny gray dot marks where the water is really going. There is about 5 or 10 ft difference. Just re-aim the nozzle by moving the yellow dot and it's gray shadow until the gray shadow is inside the target basin.

  • Well is Dry Leak:

A draining basin may or may not be caused by a leak as it can also be caused by more water flowing out than flowing in to the basin. If you watch the numbers on the interface that represent the water level as you test, if you see the numbers in any basin always going down, that means you are pushing out more water from your nozzles than the basin is receiving from another source. Either change the nozzle to something that pumps less water or have another fountain nozzle target that basin. You can also change the aim of a nozzle to "circle" the basin, where the gray dot is just inside the basin icon, but the actually animated spray will splash outside of the basin. Per other guides: either 50% of the water is re-captured or 100% is re-captured.

  • Wind Carry Leak:

Another leak can show up if the basins are too far apart. While you can place them far way and the nozzle will target the basin correctly, you will see mysterious leak circles on the interface. You can move the basins closer together to clear up those leaks. You can also insert another basin in between them to "catch the water" passing over it.

  • Mechanisim Stalled:

While not a leak, when this happens the fountain won't start at all. If the mechanism exceeds 99% (100%) it won't start. The easy fix for this is to reduce the flow of water from the nozzles. That means: Change to a different type of nozzle that uses less water. Another option is to add an interval with no action in the sequence for any nozzle. This spacer reduces the stress on the mechanism. Changing the nozzle has more direct reduction, adding a spacer has less but can be the difference between starting and not starting.


Obol's Dancing Waters Guide * this is new, feel free to tweak it if needed

Basins

Each basin is built in a separate Small Construction Site.

Size Copper Pipe Cut Stone Mandibular Glue Diameter Image
Small 10 30 15 8 ft. (0.5 coords) SmallBasinT3.jpg
Medium 20 60 30 12 ft. (0.75 coords) MediumBasinT3.jpg
Large 30 90 45 16 ft. (1 coord) LargeBasinT3.jpg
Huge 40 120 60 20 ft. (1.25 coords) HugeBasinT3.jpg


Nozzles

Nozzles are made in a Casting Box.

Name Metal Beeswax Minutes Ave. Flow Rate Image
Crystal Fog 1 Brass 1 10 1.75 CrystalFogT3.jpg
Dirty Rain 1 Copper 1 10 9.24 DirtyRainT3.jpg
Foggy Shower 1 Copper 1 10 3.52 FoggyShowerT3.jpg
Light Rain 1 Bronze 1 20 3.50 LightRainT3.jpg
Misty Bubbles 1 Brass 1 10 1.07 MistyBubblesT3.jpg
White Shower 4 Brass 4 30 2.45 WhiteShowerT3.jpg


Locations

}
Region Coordinates Designer Passed
Hinterlands -2612,-6295 Zhukuram
Pharaoh's Garden
Yes
Passed 03/04/2013
7L 1342, -1088 Sebilis yes
7L 1368, -1013 Anastasya yes
7L 671, -924 Ranno Yes
7L 809, -1044 Khelben no - built 3/26/13
RP 1581, 2789 Tallow Yes
7L 1408, -1007 Hounddog no
7L 1387, -980 Nissim Yes
Sinai 2599, 5634 Myn Yes
MV 942, 4856 Shiranai No
MV 907, 4970 Rey Yes
CCR -573, 6869 Feyth No
7L 817, -1144 JaylenaeYbarre YES
RP 1460, 3475 Windrider YES
RP 1457, 3514 Kalmkitty YES
VoK -2479, 5495 TreekaSu No
RP 1614 2769 Pira NO
RP 1325, 3364 Solaris No
RP 1289, 1880 Nitocris No
RP 1605, 2950 natta Yes
RP 1430, 2985 Riqo NO- built 3/15/2013
RP 1574, 2644 Akana No as of 9/10/13
RP 1569, 3166 Aveege Yes-passed 9/8/14