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Feel free to translate it into english here
Used Google translate for this - BlueGrass
Ok my first guide itself: I will not start from here ZERO, you should know the very basics already... Like 'higher' metal increases the number of blows or what is the goal at all or how to achieve it (by 'simple' move the metal)
Here first some 'advanced' foundations follow for forging. Understanding the pattern is pretty simple while using the tools quite well may need some time and practice. The understanding of the tools is based on those pattern.
No matter what you want to forge, it is always a pattern of equilateral triangles as that used when the image in as (Ignore the point labels ... they have unfortunately not able to hide, or it would take forever: P). It's about getting the individual points at the right height, the lines will fit automatically.
Now if you forge or click on the blank as you have a tool selected, the next point is chosen as the center for your tool. This reduces the height of some points and increases the height for the other.
The experience with the tools is important in forging, especially the required strength for correct blows. It may take some time, but at some point you'll know which force you should to use.
The following are the beating pattern of the individual tools, and a brief explanation.
I arranged the tools in order of their importance (in my opinion anyway):
Shaping Mallet has seven points that he influence dircetly. The middle point is the point B.
For Shaping Mallet is to say that it is smooth. Thus, it will first hit the high points: If you click on a low point, which is surrounded by higher, it won#t affect the lower point until the surrounding points reached the same height.
The Shaping Mallet move the metal by up to 4 points away from the starting point and so he move the metal the most, making it the best tool to use for the rough work to 8k (of course one has to distinguish from situation to situation .. . If the metal is used in the area, it is more practical to use a different tool).
The Ball Peen Hammer affect the same points as the Shaping Mallet (center B), but the outer 6 points are much higher up. So usually you should only affect the point you actual hit.
This fact makes this tool very good for the fine work and the 'finishing touch'. ;)
The Ball Peen Hammer moves the metal by up to 3 away from the starting point.
The tungsten chisel has a completely different pattern! The center is the point E, the red points are the lower ones.
From its shape it can be concluded what this tool is used for: the blade fronts... But since it is not possible to rotate the tool its use is very restricted... I use it for hatchets and carp blades.
It moves the metal by up to 3 points away from the starting point, but only forwards and backwards!
The round hammer has exactly the same pattern as the Shaping Mallet and is also flat! The only difference is how far he moved the metal.
This tool moves the metal up to 3 points away from the starting point. He also seems to me to 'weaker' than the Shaping Mallet, which is probably due to the distance he moved the metal. I personally use it regularly for hatchets.
Well, what are good Hatchet should be clear - you get more wood in the collection of trees, but also simultaneously increases the time until we can again collect wood from these trees
- 7000 Quality is always the double of wood (and doubles the recovery time)
- 9000 Quality is three times higher than for wood (and tripled the recovery time)
- 9650 Quality is always four times on wood (and quadruples the regeneration time)
- 9999 quality is almost a factor of five to wood (and quintuple recovery time)
I'm not sure at all levels;)
Ok, of course we start with the shaping mallet. For the first two pictures, the colors are as follows:
- Green: Force 6
- Pink: Force 7
- Blue: Force 8
- Red: Force 9
- Light blue: Force 5
It remains with the Shaping Mallet, except shock 48 and 49 with the round hammer (only hit one of those points, it should be enough)!
From here I always vary somewhat, since the metal is not always move in the same direction ... In most cases, however, ended this way:
It is difficult to show the rest, because you simply must vary from now ... For the back of the hatchet I mostly use the Round Hammer to reach the pitch at the corners.
Afterwards I improve the pitch of the blade (using Shaping Mallet with pretty low Force like 3 or 4), now i'm usually over 8k + quality.
Then you perfect the blade at the front using the tungsten chisel (mostly level 3) so that they actually tapers (as seen in the target). Now I'm usually around 9000 quality and the rest is just fine-work mainly with the small ball-peen hammer.
So that's all I can say this, hope it helped.